The Cosmic Watchdog

Old is now the new new in fashion as millions more buy into a second-hand clothing revolution where the recycling model created by Glass Onion Vintage stands out for delivering benefits far beyond a wardrobe refresh. With three stores in Sheffield and Leeds, event pop-ups, an inhouse sewing factory that upcycles off-cuts into new pieces and an international wholesale sales operation, the UK business saved 1,080,000 litres of water in 2023 that would have been used to produce textiles and diverted 1.1million kilos of clothing from landfill. 

“We’re a much-needed link in the chain that reuses, remakes and recycles so vintage is accessible, affordable and aspirational,” says owner John Hickling who over two decades has turned a hobby into an enterprise now generating annual growth close to 25 per cent and employing 65 in south Yorkshire.

Glass Onion buys from recycling companies with charity shop surplus stock. Then in its factory and 30,000 sq ft warehouse it cleans, assesses, reworks or spruces up the heritage and designer pieces as appropriate before distributing them for sale. Japan has 80 stores taking the clothes and Scandinavia is another enthusiastic market. Among the items vintage denim jeans are the ones with enduring appeal while demand is currently strong for on trend loose-fitting blazers. 

It is currently exploring the authenticity and return of a 150-year-old jacket from an indigenous people in Canada – one of its most astonishing finds.

The start of a year is usually peak clear-out season and Glass Onion’s customers are mainly in the under-35 age bracket. “When I started I was in a very niche sector,” reflects Hickling whose down-to-earth personal preference is for workwear. “People are much more aware of the impact on the environment,” he explains. “The stigma of second-hand has gone forever. But the change in the last 10 years has been incredible. People are much more aware of the impact on the environment. The stigma of second-hand has gone forever.”

A winner of the British Fashion Council’s changemaker award, he also attributes part of Glass Onion’s success to him “having a good eye for putting thing together into a sellable package and understanding how the flow of clothing works”. Partnering with high street chains in 2010 was a turning point,” he adds, “vintage was becoming mainstream and we learned how to professionalise our processes.”

Technology has been key in empowering Glass Onion which uses Lightspeed, a one-stop commerce platform that unifies online and physical operations such as multichannel sales, expansion to new locations, global payments, financial solutions, and connection to supplier networks. Its research has revealed that nearly eight in 10 Brits (79%) currently shop in physical stores, with four in 10 planning to increase their shopping on the high-street in the coming year. “This offers optimism for the retail sector, as merchants look for ways to attract and retain consumers.”

“With this we can keep track and punch above our weight,” confirms Hickling who also recognises the support the business has received from its bank NatWest as it navigates numerous exchange rates.

Rising costs, including a £120,000 increase in national insurance, remain its biggest challenge, but this year it plans to open more stores and develop an ecommerce offering. “We are a fashion brand that does not produce new clothing”, declares Hickling and in a world where some 20 per cent of new clothes are never worn he has plenty to be proud of. https://glass-onion.com,    https://www.lightspeedhq.co.uk/